In the first week of May through our friends at Bareboat Sailing Holidays we chartered Nana a Gib Sea 37 for a week starting and ending at the Sail Croatia base at Kaštela Marina, near Split, Croatia.
||Distance travelled (miles)
|| Kaštela Marina
||Very wet, handover boat 4pm
||Kaštela Marina to Bobovisca, Brac
||50knt gusts NE
||Broad reach South, half a main. Buoys in bay Bobovisca 200 kuna
||Bobovisca, Brac to Stari Grad, Hvar
||Broad reach/run to Stari Grad. Marina 375 kuna – no buoys until July
|| Stari Grad, Hvar to Vela Luka, Korcula
||Very calm, motored. Free buoys town quay
||Vela Luka, Korcula to Komiza, Viz
||Broad reach West to Viz, Buoys in harbour 250 kuna
||Komiza, Viz to Bisevo to Milna, Brac
|| 3/4 N
|| New marina with WC under construction, €40
||Milna, Brac to Kaštela Marina
|| 3/4 NW
||Calm until afternoon, then close hauled North back to base marina
||left boat 9am
The day started early with the flight to Split leaving Gatwick before 6am. Knowing the boat wouldn’t be ready until later in the afternoon we had the day to be tourists, albeit in heavy rain. The staff were really helpful allowing us to leave bags in the office and Trogir was a short taxi ride (200 kuna) away. Our friendly driver Ante was keen to show us everything when we got there. Wanting to look around ourselves we were pleasantly surprised his tour consisted of parking on the zebra crossing in the centre and pointing, “this is the market, this is the old stuff, you might be interested, around there is the castle, and over the bridge the marina. Call me I’ll take you back, if you like.” We decided quite quickly Croatia is pretty laid back.
Setting sail, first leg south to Brac
Windy NE gusts were forecast up to 60 knots. So putting off departure and another Gratos cash & carry run later, we waited for a queue of boats to come in and eventually set off about 2pm. With 30-40 knots wind and 50 knot gusts, we sailed with only 1/2 the main out. We made such good progress we almost overshot Milna, Brac then sailed E to Bobovisca where we arrived 6pm.
Fresh Seabass grilled on an open log fire, we used tender from anchorage buoys.
Island hoping to Hvar, on to Stari Grad
10am off the mooring it was nice and sunny, we sailed with steady winds around South Brac. After lunching on the boat and had broad reach / run to Stari Grad where we arrived 4pm. The main jammed in the mast when furling just as we come in, there were no buoys available (until July turns out) so sorted that out and moored on the town quay.
Calamari & Zucchini was followed by some G&T’s then we ate at Antika restaurant.
Further South, on to Vela Luka
Left 11am after speaking to a Scottish couple moored next to us who recommended moorings at Komica, Viz where you can take your tender into caves under a restaurant (Jastozera) an hours sail from the Blue Caves. Motored out of Stari Grad heading West around coast to Hvar town. No wind so continued motoring on to Vela Luka, a little wind later and free buoys in the town harbour, and helpful neighbours when the boat hook started floating away! 🙂
Walked up the hill to Vela Spila caves, they were closed but the views of bay were fantastic.
Ate Scorpion fish at Casablanca, expensive but nice, with oysters and mussels to start, really recommend.
As the sun went down we listened to Floyd, Wish You Were Here. Well, we were glad we were!
West to Viz
Tendered into town to exchange money and get supplies. I took a short swim after coffee, 17C water temp, and was reminded it was still only May! Motored out of Vela Luka 11am heading West to Viz on broad reach. Good wind (15-20 knots) until South of Viz, then motored round to Komiza arriving 6pm.
Mooring buoys a plenty, later in evening harbour master took our boat papers and said to pay at the office before leaving, caught!! 250 Kuna ca-ching!
Back up North, get as far as Brac
Showers to start the day SE wind forecast changing to N. So we set off to Bisevo / Blue Cave 9.30am. Turned out Blue cave was closed because there wasn’t sunshine so no light effect to be seen. We came along side the quay just to be told the “cave men” had just left. After also hearing stories of Irish canoeists having been rescued after capsizing days before we considered our original plan of heading directly North to Rogoznica and decided instead to motor more to the NE keeping closer to Hvar and Brac in case the weather turned.
We made good time though arriving in Milna at 4.30pm which gave the opportunity to chill out watching the other boats come in.
Last hop back to base
Milna, we had moored at the new marina next to fishery. The shower block was still under construction, the showers were in use but to get in you had to walk under the ceiling as it was still being painted!
After setting off we hit a dead calm after an initial light breeze, we motored for an hour then the NW/W picked up to around 25 knots and we made about 5+ knots close hauled up to Kastela marina. After filling the tank up (for 439 kuna) we were berthed at the marina 4.30pm.
That gave us a chance to explore Split in the evening eating at Fife, pronounced Fee-Fee which we’d highly recommend serving a beef goulash with gnocchi that really hit the spot.
Saturday morning we had to say good bye to Nana who had served us well before another “Taxi maybe?” to Split and a bus back to the airport and flight home.